Market Insight

Coutts London Jewellery Week last week hosted the hotly anticipated Treasure exhibition at Convent Garden’s Flower Cellars. Featured in the showcase were over 70 of the most exciting jewellery designers working in the UK today, from established talents to rising stars of tomorrow and brands with cult appeal.

Participating jewellers were invited to join the exhibition based on the quality of their designs, exciting use of cutting-edge technology and innovative materials. Featured in the showcase were 65 artisans from the East End Arts Club, who rose to the challenge of creating new ‘Hidden Gems’ for this special event. The Jewellery Designer’s Collective (JeDeCo) also used the exhibition as a launchpad, as did Design Space, a collective of hot new designers from Birmingham’s jewellery quarter.

Nina Koutibashvili’s ‘Jewellery Designer of the Year’ award-nominated work immediately drew the eye. “I’m showing different collections here,” she told Marketplace News, “but everything sprang from this gold piece from the Slick collection (pictured here), in which I aimed to give hard metal a soft feeling. I was mainly inspired by ornamental fabrics, roses with thorns, snakes and also dragons, because I am a Chinese dragon!

The snake-theme was explored, she added, “because some people described the gold necklace as being like a viper’s nest, or the hair of medusa.” Koutibashvili graduated from Central St Martin’s four years ago and is in the process of collaboration with leading British jeweller, Theo Fennell.

Among the varied works on display Marketplace was also attracted by the romantic, bohemian style of Rosie Weisencrantz, who combines a passion for romantic vintage jewellery with a love of weaving and commitment to recycling. We also loved Saloukee’s delicate laser-cut paper creations and the wonderful craftsmanship of Sarah Herriot, who last year won the Goldsmiths Craftmanship & Design ‘Fine Jewellery Award’.

The winner of the 2009 Treasure Designer of the Year Award, which recognises excellence in visionary design and the use of the latest technology, went to Tusheeta David of Design Space. Tusheeta wins a week-long break at the five-star Mykonos Theoxenia hotel. The Sonama-Cutrer Design Award for 2009 was awarded to Ring Leader Urban Jewellery.

Click here for more information on Treasure